
This
isn't really a performance mod, but it is a cool little project.
I finally figured
out how to get the "security" lite in the dash of my VR to work.
If you don't already know, there is a green security warning lite in the dash
of the Celebrities. They were never utilized as no Celebrities were offered
with the factory alarm systems. BUT, if you could get it to work, it might
be a decent theft deterent.
The goal is to
get the light to flash while the engine is off, and turn off while the engine
is running. There is no easy way to get it to work thru the cars ecm, which
is how it is supposed to function. And there are several ways to get it work
with relays and stuff connected to the ignition system. I found an easier
way. I cheated.
I stumbled across
this German electronics kit manufacturer called Velleman. I could see one
of thier kits was a "car alarm simulator"( part number MK126 http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/pr...iew/?id=351130
). So I checked it out, clicked around thier site, and found a list of US
distributors. One of them was 20 mins. from my work. So I called them and
ordered the kit. I picked it up a week later for a total of 10 bucks with
2 additional green and white leds.
It has only 2
wires to hook up when its done. One to the always hot terminal in the fuse
panel, and one to ground. Thats it. It senses voltage rise or drop in the
system. Turn the car off, and the led flashes. Start the car and it stops
flashing. Totally simple.
It was a kit
so I had to solder all the parts to a little board. It was not complicated,
the instructions were easy to follow, and it took about an hour and 2 bud
lights to put the kit itself together. The led that come with the kit is red,
and that wasn't going to work for me. I got the extra green led because the
security panel on the dash is green, and a white one because I wasnt sure
which color would look right. So I got both. They were cheap.
The extra leds
I bought fit into the stock 194 bulb holder for the for the back of the dash!
Just put 2 extra holes in the holder for 2 wires to come thru for the led
leads and twist it into place like a standard bulb. Solder some wire to it
after its in the holder. I put some hot glue on base of the bulb and the socket
just to hold it in place.
Installation
of the kit and led into the car is no more difficult than replacing the bulbs
in the dash. Start by going thru the normal steps to remove the dash to replace
the bulbs. Put your pre-built bulb and socket in place, run the wires down,
secure the flasher unit and replace the dash. Make 2 connections at the fuse
box. Thats it. Yer done.
It flashes 4
times rapidly then stops for 4 seconds, then repeats. And the green led is
just bright enough. You can read "Security" when it flashes. But
its not glaringly bright. It looks correct. And since its an led, it could
run for years off of a 12 volt car battery without killing it.



















Heres
the packaging for the kit. Part number MK126
This
is what you get in the package. I had already started to put it together when
I took this picture.
You'll
need these tools besides the ones to get your dash out. Use a low(15W) wattage
solder iron with a pointy tip and some .032 rosin core solder. Keep the tip
clean, you'll need to get the carbon off of it several times during this project
to keep it working good. and you'll need some pointed wire cutters and a small
flat or phillips screwdriver for an adjustment.
This
is the finished product. Sorry, the picture of the backside didn't turn out
well. Soldering technique is pretty important with this kit. A steady hand and
a light touch is how its done. A magnifying glass is handy to see the identifying
marks on all the small pieces and to check your solder joints.
This
is the standard 194 bulb socket. I have removed the bulb and the 2 brass contacts.
You can easily pull them out with some needle nose pliers.
Use
a 1/16" drill bit and put 2 more holes in the bottom of the socket
Heres
the led. The long leg of the led is the positive.
Put
the led into the socket. It will fit nicely into it, almost as well as the original
bulb. I hot glued the bulb into place to make sure it wont come out.
I
soldered some black and red wires onto the leads and put some shrink tube over
the connections. I made the wires about 24 inches long figuring I could make
them shorter if they turned out to be too long.
Test
fit of the bulb before soldering wires to it. I had an old dash laying around
so it made for a good place to test it all out before actually putting it in
the car.
Heres a test
with the white led. Its awful bright!
I hooked it
all up to my John deere lawn tractor, a 318, to make sure everything worked.
Its got a 12volt system that works like the car, so I could start and stop
the tractor with it wired to the battery and check its operation.
This
is with the green led. I like this better, as it is a bit more subtle and you
can read "Security" as it flashes.
My
wife jokes that I have OCD. I guess this is her proof. I made a little plexiglass
box to protect the flasher unit. You really don't have to do this, but I had
some spare time and the materials. Bad combination.
I
drilled holes into it where needed, put some foam under it to protect the soldered
side, and super glued it shut.
I
had to put a hole in the side to access the adjustment pot with a small screwdriver.
This is used to find the balance point between the flash and no-flash state.
Everything needs to be hooked up in the car to make this adjustment. But once
its set, thats it, you shouldn't ever have to do it again.
Heres
a picture as its being installed in the car. Thre is a big hole in the center
of the dash to easily run the wire. Don't get it pinched in the big plug for
the dash.
Here
it is under the dash, below the steering column.
There
is a nice loop in the factory harness that the unit fits into perfectly. The
stud and nut directly to the right of the unit makes a great ground.
This
photo didn't focus correctly. Its hard to see, but i put a spade on the positive
and a fork terminal on the ground. The positive is connected to an open BAT
terminal in the fuse box. The BAT terminal is always hot, even when the ignition
is off. The ground is connected to the aforementioned stud.
Thats
about it. It may not prevent a theft, but it may make someone think twice about
trying. And it was fun to do project and looks pretty cool!
Click
on any photo to enlarge it.